Used car buying guide: Jaguar E-Type

By this time, and in response to demands from the US, the design had strayed a little from its original purity. This trend would gather pace with the arrival of the S3 in 1971. Out went the 4.2 to be replaced by a 5.3 V12 and out, too, went the standard coupé, leaving the ungainly 2+2 and roadster, which now shared its longer wheelbase. 

If you’re tempted to buy an E-Type you’ll be supported by more specialist workshops than you can throw a spanner at. Left-hand-drive versions are good value and there’s nothing wrong with buying a right-hooker that was once a left, as long as it’s reflected in the price. The 2+2 isn’t quite as pretty as the regular coupé but that’s reflected in lower prices, too. There we go again… 

An expert’s view

Angus Moss, director, E-Conic: “I’ve loved the E-Type ever since I saw my first in 1962. In 1976 I bought one to restore for £300. Forward to 2014 and, having said farewell to my career in IT, at the age of 61 I opened E-Conic, an E-Type restoration business. The prices of sought-after Series 1s are now out of reach of most people. I’m fortunate in owning a 1965 S1 4.2 drophead and a 1966 4.2 coupé. The Series 2s are a more affordable alternative. They drive the same as the S1 and the view down the bonnet is the same, but the improved seats, ventilation and lights make them much more usable.”

Buyer beware… 

■ Engine: Six-cylinder engines are tough but look for a blown head gasket, listen for rattles and watch for smoke from cold. Once it’s warm, check the fan cuts in. Lumpy running may be worn carb diaphragms. On V12s check the quality of the coolant and the condition of the hoses, and that for warped cylinder heads. Healthy pressures for both engines are around 45psi. Fuel pumps and ignition systems are weak spots but there are modern replacements, as for the alternator and radiator. 

■ Gearbox: Check for gears jumping and crashing (the original, occasionally obstructive Moss ’box has no synchro on first but its successor, the Jaguar four-speed, is all synchromesh). On autos, check for slurring or leaking fluid. Feel for clutch slip (replacement means removal of the bonnet, engine and gearbox). Listen for the diff whining. 

■ Steering, suspension and brakes: Check for play in the rack-and-pinion steering, and for a wallowy ride (both should feel tight). Listen for creaks from the rear, suggesting corroded lower hub pivots. Inspect rear brakes for oil contamination from the diff. Check the handbrake hasn’t seized. 

■ Body: If it’s not an obvious rust bucket (the seams, front valance, door bottoms, engine supports, rear wings and floor can suffer), pass a magnet over the body to identify filler. Check all panel gaps are even. 

■ Interior: Unless it’s been expensively restored, expect peeling trims, cracked leather and a few failed switches. 

Also worth knowing 

Jaguar Heritage (jaguarheritage.com) supply a certified copy of an E-Type’s build entry in the original factory ledger for £50. It will establish the car’s original build date, colour and trim – all key to establishing its authenticity. 

How much to spend 

£24,000-£44,999: Mix of RHD S1 and S3 2+2 coupés and LHD S2 4.2s. Examples include a LHD 1973 S3 V12 2+2 with 35k miles for £26,000 rising to £42,000 for a 1967 RHD S1 4.2 2+2 with 125k miles. 

£45,000-£69,999: Includes more LHD S1 3.8 and 4.2 FHC project car 2+2s at around £60,000. More interestingly, also includes genuine RHD S2 4.2 coupés in good condition for around £67,000. 

£70,000-£89,999: Good choice of RHD S3s from here, including a 1973 roadster for £85,000. 

£90,000-£110,000: Includes a fully restored 1972 S3 roadster for £97,995.

One we found