The business of reviewing new cars has taken me to more upmarket places over the years. Michelin-starred restaurants in prime riviera locations in Cannes, Marbella and Monaco.

Mountain lookouts in Spain’s Serra de Tramuntana or on South Africa’s Kouebokkeveld. All very nice, but you don’t really want to read about them – and in any case, some of the rougher eateries that you find in just the right locations, and with just the right clientele, are the truly special ones.