Used buying guide: Peugeot 205 GTi

Also in 1986, the 1.9 was launched. It produced a modest 124bhp (later versions with a catalytic converter dropped to 120bhp), but thanks to the engine’s increased stroke, it was torquier. The 1.6 feels revvier, but being eight-valve affairs, both have bags of go from the start. 

To handle the increase in performance – a healthy example can do 0-62mph in 7.8sec – the 1.9 has disc brakes all round. The 1.6 gets discs at the front but makes do with drums at the rear. If testing an early 1.9, feel for driveline shunt in stop-start traffic. It’s nothing serious and a fuelling tweak fixes it. 

The 205 was galvanised but it was a fairly hit-and-miss process, with some cars being better protected than others. Thompson reckons that, generally speaking, 1991 J-reg 205s rust the least and 1988 F-regs suffer the worst. Whatever the year, check the doors, sills, headlights and boot floor for the crumbly stuff. 

We often sign off these guides frivolously urging you to buy now, and in the case of the 205 GTi, we make no apologies for encouraging you to do so. Really, it’s that good.

An expert’s view 

Martin Thompson, Peugeot Racing Developments: “I got my first 205 GTi at 19 and was hooked. I’m 37 now and I’ve owned 20. Part of its secret is its lightness. It’ll fold up in a crash, but keep out of trouble and it’s a blast. I’d have a 1.9 over the 1.6 for its power and torque. It’s got slightly longer gearing so is a better motorway car, too, but the 1.6 is great on back roads. A popular upgrade is to fit a 16v Mi16 engine from the Peugeot 405. I’ve fitted two Peugeot 3.0 V6s to one of mine: one at the front, one at the back.”

Buyer beware… 

Engine: Check the exhaust manifold for cracks. Poor idle suggests a failed airflow meter. Check the coolant for signs of a failed head gasket. Listen for big end bearings knocking or droning. A dry bearing sound or a ticking could be a failed cambelt tensioner. The belt and water pump need changing every four years. 

Oil issues: Oil starvation is an issue so keep an eye on the pressure gauge. It can be caused by a non-Peugeot oil filter, the oil pump being blocked with old gasket or, in the case of worn cams, buckets and lobes, by blocked oil spray bars. Look for leaks at the back of the sump. A new gasket should fix it. Oil smoke on start-up is worn valve stem seals. 

Transmission: First= and second-gear synchros wear but a worn third-gear synchro means the car has been thrashed. Plastic gear linkages wear, causing loose shift feel. New linkages and a quick-shift cure it. Worn lower engine mount causes engine rock and wears the driveshafts. 

Suspension and brakes: Check the rear beam axle for collapsed bearings caused by perished seals. Droplinks wear quickly, as do rear wheel bearings and wishbone bushes. Suspension top mount bearings rot and go stiff, causing the unit to creak. 

Body: Rust can affect door bottoms, sills, around the headlights and in the boot floor. The sunroof leaks.

Interior: Check the seats are secure because they can easily become loose.

Also worth knowing

There’s a thriving aftersales and support community for the 205 GTi. The best-known specialist is Pug1Off (pug1off.com), offering 167bhp and 195bhp upgrades. Spoox Motorsport (spoox.co.uk) also does power upgrades, spares and race prep. Skip Brown cars is another 205 specialist doing everything from full rebuilds to routine servicing (skipbrowncars.com). 

How much to spend 

£4000-£5995: Includes a rust-free 1988 1.6 with 124k miles and lots of history for £4995, and a 190k-mile 1988 1.9 for £5995.