Mazda RX-7 | Used Car Buying Guide

All are described as FD series cars, though with Mazda producing the RX-7 right up until 2002 in Japan a number of updates were made in its lifecycle. The various models include the R, RS, RZ RB, A-Spec and Touring, all but that Touring coming with a five-speed manual, it featuring a four-speed auto.

The closest import model to UK specification is the RS. Some special editions were also built, the Bathurst having 274bhp. Further confusing things is Mazda’s use of its Efini sporting brand in Japan, with many making it over to the UK so badged.

Always a relatively rare sight with the original cars over 20 years old the RX-7 is even more so now. They’ve got something of a cult following today, which has seen prices bottom out and start to rise again for the very best.

Gary Marks, owner of Mazda rotary specialist RoTechniks, 01189 888 555, www.rotechniks.co.uk has owned several and worked on countless others, and knows their foibles.

Most, unsurprisingly centre around that unique engine, but Marks says with proper care and attention they’re not the nightmare they’re made out to be. Most issues arise from misuse, the RX-7 needing a heat cycle through it before using all those revs. Don’t do that and you’ll have issues with the water seals, which is an engine out and rebuild job. To do so will cost you £3300, though RoTechniks offers a choice of warranties with that.

Servicing should be every 6000 miles/annually according to Mazda’s schedule, Marks preferring to use semi-synthetic or fully synthetic oil over the pure mineral oil that Mazda specified. Modern oils are better at dealing with the heat the Wankel unit generates. Marks suggests a 3000 mile oil change, selling a kit to do so for just £30.

The 6000 mile service costs £140, a larger 12000 mile service £180 and a 24000 mile service £260-280. Given the heat and those seals Marks also recommends waterless coolant, which makes the system pressureless, helping preserve the engine seals and hoses.

The simplest check on the health of the engine is to test the compression. Marks says the hot compression should be 7 to 9 kilos per cm, with anything below 5 meaning you’ll be needing a rebuild. If it’s troublesome starting from hot then it’s likely to be low. Most require some sort of major engine work at around the 80-90,000 mile mark, many taking the opportunity to modify the engine for more power.

There are lots of options to do so, Rotechniks is able to port the engine to suit differing turbos, it relatively easy to get a reliable 400bhp. The turbos will cost around £2000 on top of the engine work. Many have dropped the twin turbo set up for a single one, and if it’s small enough it shouldn’t affect driveability.

Bigger single turbo set ups can produce big numbers, but they’ll come with laggy response. More power will require a tougher clutch, Marks rating Carbonetics set ups, these available with single, double or triple plate, Carbonetics also offering a replacement limited slip differential.

The stock transmission and suspension are difficult to fault, though with 32 different bushes underneath Marks says to bank on changing at least one or two every service. The brakes should provide great service too, though Marks says they’ll need regular cleaning to help prevent binding - as you’d expect on a car of this age.

The bodywork wears well, though beware of damage or rot under bodykits and wings, a common upgrade being to fit later 1999 specification front bumpers and rear lights - featuring three circular lights each side of the distinctive housing.

Rotechniks will look over any prospective purchase for around £100, which given its unique specification would be a wise investment. Find a good one though and the RX-7 should thrill like little else, that smooth rotary power a unique and enjoyable experience. So much more interesting than its contemporaries too, so long as you’ve the time and money to invest in it:

Mazda RX-7 problems:

Engine:

The RX-7’s twin rotary engine features two turbos to produce 237bhp in UK specification. Japanese cars produced more, between 265-285bhp thanks to the loss of one of the cats in the exhaust. The engine is complex, it unlikely you’ll find one that’s not been rebuilt at some point. Expect to do so at around 80,000 miles, at a cost of around £3300.   

Transmission:

Standard manual transmission is strong, it able to manage up to 500bhp without any modifications. A clutch will cost you around £600 and it’s essential you change the needle bearing at the same time for a crisp shift. If you are modifying the engine it’s worth adding an upgraded one, with kits available from about £1500. 

Chassis:

The suspension is tough, though with 32 different bushes underneath it’ll be a rare service where you’re not having at least one done. The standard Mazda bushes are best, while Feed in Japan do a full kit of bushes and bearings for around £1200. Many add a coilover kit for track use. Doing so will cost around £1200.

Brakes:

No real issues with the strong standard brakes, though if track use is intended then a set of uprated pads will help. It’s worth stripping the brakes and cleaning them completely when changing pads to help prevent age-related binding. Plenty of upgrades are possible, but the standard brakes are more than up to the task for road use. 

Cabin:

The cabin is fairly plain, UK cars featuring a pair of covered luggage lockers in the back, Japanese cars coming with seats. Door window switches are prone to breaking and are getting tougher to find, and seat bolsters on the driver’s side collapse with age and use. Otherwise it should be fairly robust, if unremarkable to look at.