Until recently, buying a used electric car was a bit of a leap into the unknown. Viewed as rare and technically complex, these zero-emissions-at-the-tailpipe machines were treated with scepticism by traditional second-hand buyers more interested in bargains than batteries.
Yet with manufacturers adding ever more EVs to their line-ups over the past few years, the choice of used examples is increasing all the time. On top of that, the increased awareness of the need for zero-emissions motoring is really starting to cut through, making a second-hand electric car more desirable than ever.
So what do you need to know? Read on as we reveal all the top tips you’ll need to bag a great used EV.
Types of electric cars
First up, decide exactly what sort of electric car you want or need, because currently there are quite a few to choose from.
Most obviously, there are BEVs (battery-electric vehicles), which are the ones that usually come to mind when thinking of electric cars. Using a large battery pack to power an electric motor or motors, these machines run purely on electricity. As a result, ‘range anxiety’ can be an issue, with drivers sometimes worried that they’ll be stranded without power. On some early BEVs, this is a genuine concern, with the distance between charges in, say, and early Nissan Leaf being little more than 90 miles. However, some later models are now pushing to 300 and even 400 miles on a single charge.
Next up are PHEVs (plug-in hybrid electric vehicles), which combine a traditional ICE ( internal combustion engine) with an electric motor and smaller battery. For most short journeys, the electric motor can take the strain, thanks to a range that’s typically between 25 and 40 miles. However, when the cells are drained or you need to go further afield, you can use the petrol or diesel engine. Like BEVs, they can be plugged in to recharged the battery, although many also allow you to replenish the electricity using the ICE as a generator.
REx (range-extenders) operate in a similar way but with a different mechanical philosophy. Effectively, they drive like BEVs, using the electric motor to drive the wheels all the time, while like PHEVs, they have an ICE. Yet unlike PHEVs, the ICE is used purely as a generator to keep the battery at a minimum state of charge until you can plug in and return the battery cells to maximum, when you’ll get a similar zero-emissions-at-the-tailpipe figure as a PHEV.
Is an electric car right for me?
This is arguably the question that needs to be at the top of the list for every potential EV buyer. Essentially, you have to take the time to work out what you’re going to use the car for and where it’s going to be parked when not in use, as there’s little point going electric if you can’t recharge its battery because you’ve no access to the mains.
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@bol Lucky you with your cheap electricity. I don't live on the Mainland therefore electricity is currently at 17p per kW day and night. It is going up to 19p per kW next month and that is with all providers. Although it's still cheaper than filling up a petrol or diesel car. We also have cheaper housing and drinking water is cheaper therefore swings and roundabouts.
I don't think many people charge at home at 17p per kW. I charge at 5p per kW over night and so it costs me about 1.2p per mile. More expensive if you need to use rapid chargers obviously.
There are also a bunch of people running longer range EVs who never charge at home, but go to a rapid charger once a week or so while they do their shopping. Still a lot cheaper to run than petrol or diesel.